Mastering moldmaking : making 2-part and complex molds
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Also, molding this way will make the seam line easier to clean in your final part. Find or construct a border for the part. You want it to be some sealed volume that at least extends an inch above the part, and an inch to the sides in all directions.
I glued the top of a paper mixing bucket to a masonite panel with hot glue. Lay your part in this container securely with some clay.
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The clay is going to have a tendency to stick to your part, and will need to be cleaned when you begin the second half of the mold, so do yourself a favor and coat the part in a spray release, or wrap it in clingfilm and cut the film away at your mold line. Cleaning clay off your part will most likely result in it pulling up out of the mold before you begin the second half, which will mean that you'll get some silicone dribbling in between the part and the mold and screwing up your texture.
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Begin making a rough border around the part with clay, coming up to the line you drew earlier. Work the clay layer until it is smooth and even around the part. Leaving a texture to the clay will only make the mold harder to pull apart.
For most organically shaped parts like action figures or prosthetics, your mold will fit together in a very specific way. The seam line that these organic shapes have just naturally locks together in one position. For more geometric or mechanical parts like legos or usb drives, your mold seam may be nearly flat, and therefore difficult to align or register.
To make sure the mold goes together the same way each time, you add a seam line or a key to the mold.
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I prefer to make a quarter inch trench along the border of the part, not only to fit it together well each time but to also prevent material from leaking out when I'm casting the final parts. Silicone is a great molding material because of its natural tendency to not stick to things. This makes it ideal for casting a wide variety of things from plastics to plaster. However, it does love to stick to itself. If you don't make sure the mold is properly sealed in between castings, you'll find yourself with a big block of silicone with an action figure prize inside.
I'm serious. I recommend you use a digital scale to measure out your materials. I try to gauge the volume of my mold by some simple geometry. Always mix a little more than you think the mold will actually take to fill. It's very difficult to mix up a new batch of material on the fly when this happens. Also, before casting, inspect your entire mold to make sure that there are no possible holes or leaks. Even a tiny pinhole leak in your mold could mean you find a pool of cured silicone on your rug and a lightly silicone glazed part in your mold when you come back to check it the next morning.
Mix as per the manufacturer's instructions, and pour in a high, thin, even stream to eliminate air bubbles. I have a tendency to fiddle with the mold, hoping to improve things as it cures.
The Essential Guide to Mold Making & Slip Casting
This doesn't often work to my advantage. The more fiddling you do, the more chance you have at screwing things up. What you should do is vibrate the table the mold is on to dislodge bubbles for a few minutes, and then go somewhere and read a nice book. You should let the mold do it's thing. When the silicone is cured this will vary depending on the manufacturer come back and take another look. If all goes well, you should be able to simply flip the part over, take off the clay, and pour the second half.
For me, that meant cutting the bottom off of the mold container the paper mixing bucket and turning the whole thing over. Remember to apply a generous coat of sealant.
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I use Smooth-on SuperSeal spray. It requires two thorough coats spaced twenty minutes apart. Check for bubbles in your sealant, smooth them out with a soft brush if there are any.
Mix and pour again. I would like to do anatomical skull model mold but not sure what to do. If I use silicone as you did can I re-use that over and over again? Silicone is quite expensive and I would like to make few molds. Also, would I be able to do the same thing with alginate two stages? I would really appreciate your help. Reply 4 months ago.
Question 8 months ago on Step 7. I'm trying to make a 2 part master mold for production. We are having a hard time calculating the ammount of silicone needed to make it. So you have any tips or an equation, or calculator that might help? Answer 4 months ago. I'm a professional silicone mold manufacturer from China ,I could give you best advice and sent u some samples.
I have a few silicone molds i hate and cant resell. Ive also heard cured silicone fant be remelted or re moulded. If it is how please? Reply 1 year ago. It won't melt back down to liquids. What he meant is that you can cut up your silicone and add it to the liquid, to save some of your liquid silicone when making a new mold. I've never done anything like this before.
Is this both clay and silicon? A clay bottom with a silicone top? No other volume has shown the processes in such how-to detail. Create easy one-piece molds to make tiles, bowls, and platters, or multi-piece molds for more complex forms.
An extensive overview covers slip formulation, while offering highly desired slip recipes for low-, mid-, and high-fire clay bodies. Country of Publication: US Dimensions cm : Help Centre. My Wishlist Sign In Join. Write a review. Add to Wishlist. In Stock.
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